Mikorist

To jeste najbrže rešenje. U takvim uređajima uvek ekonomišu na nečemu. Pa ispadne da ne valja ni kao DAC a ni kao pojačalo. Duga je ovo priča da se sve smesti u jednu temu. Ima najmanje pet različitih.

Ja imam poseban mini PC smo za DAC... dell optiplex micro Ni 10db se ne cuje iz njega. Cak i otvoren ovako

Ja sam naprvio Linux da bi to mogao. Evo ovde uputstvo u pdf https://www.diyaudio.rs/topic/10902-fai-cockpit-album-player-iso/page/11/#comment-460950 aplayer ima i za Windows ovde https://vvfon.ru/aplayer_eng.html i on ima UPnP/DLNA control - sve ide kroz LAN/Wi-Fi MusicBee Install the UPnP/DLNA plugin by copying the file mb_Upnp.dll to the Plugins directory. The plugin’s page link: http://getmusicbee.com/addons/plugins/11/upnp-dlna-device-support/ In the menu "Edit-Setting-Plugins-MusicBee UPnP-Setting" choose the options: оutput sample rate: 44100 to 192000 maximum bit depth: 24 оutput format: PCM - 24 bit оutput sample rate: same as source. Choose APlayer Mini Renderer as an output device in the menu "Edit-Setting-Player-sound output via: APlayer Mini Renderer" BubbleUPnp se koristi isto sa telefona za Tidal u oba slucaja Na Windows ne znam kako radi - nikad ga nisam koristio za muziku

čkćkćkhhhh . .

Skinuše čoveku video gde se vidi kako je napravljen 30K preamp

Npomena ko koristi FOSI V3 pojačalca. NIKAKO ići preko 36V-5A napjanje - izgoreće pre nego kasnije Dva PRIMERA Obojca su koristili 48V napajanja....Rezultat je beli dim..... dodAtni tekst Okay this is likely to get long... First let me point out that properly implemented the TPA3255 chip is a first class amplifier. It ticks all the right boxes for a high fidelity device and as we've seen in ranking reviews it scores right up with the best of them. I know everyone wants the 48 volt supplies so they can suck maximum power from these little amplifiers to feed their 4 inch bookshelf speakers. But that is a mistake, as this and other reviews are showing us. (And I've been explaining for over a year) Heat is a problem; especially in these super tiny mini-amp cases with almost no airflow. We saw it in the original A07, the TB10D, and several others where, if pushed these tiny amplifiers overheat and go into protection on 48 volt supplies. To prevent that you need either a much larger heat sink and forced air cooling or you need to run them at a lower voltage that does not produce so much heat. And before you jump... bolting the chip to the bottom of the case is NOT an adequate solution. That these things get hot enough to burn you, it has to be obvious the case is not radiating the heat away into the air... it is simply getting hot and, trust me, inside that case will be a lot hotter! So, we are left with just one option... turn down the power. In bench testing of these mini-amps, there is a common theme that around 38 to 40 volts, running 1% below clipping, the cooling solution will be overwhelmed and temperatures will begin to rise, more or less out of control. Eventually the amplifier will get so hot that it will go into a thermal panic and shut itself off. This behaviour is exacerbated in the V3Mono amplifier by the "Auto" sensing circuit that will try to turn it right back on while still blistering hot. 40 volt power supplies that will plug into the back of these amps are not commonly available. The closest you're going to get is 36 volts. Thus my recommendation is that you should not run these TPA3255 mini-amps on more than 36 volts. Testing with 36 volt 5 amp supplies these little guys will get warm but not "drop the cup" hot. They will run day in and day out without thermal or current based shutdowns and the odds are they will last a lot longer. ===== A second mistake present in the V3Mono is the sharing of a power supply. The resistance of the DC power leads provides a path through which two (or more) TPA3255 chips may interact in unfavourable ways. When you have multiple chips on a single supply, you are required to provide an external synchronized clock to prevent this. The chip has Master and Slave modes to accommodate this requirement. (Data Sheet page 24) This is not happening when you use the Y connector on the single power supply and a couple of reviewers have reported noise at idle because of it. Although unconfirmed, this problem may be exacerbated by the Post Filter Feed Back networks added to deal with the issue of load dependencies. (That nobody is going to hear anyway) The simple answer here is to use two separate supplies so that no interaction between amplifiers occurs. ===== So what is the best way to set up with these V3Mono amplifiers? 2 V3Mono amplifiers with 2 separate 36 volt, 5 amp supplies. This will give you approximately 75 watts per channel on 8 ohm loads and about 140 on 4 ohm loads... with very low distortion, much less heat, no protection trips and perfectly good sound quality. But most importantly it will last for years instead of weeks.

Jedan detljalj dodtni. Na PSU ide ovaj adpter pa kablina šrimovna od 10A

Faktički ništa. Na Polku sam promenio otpornike, kondezatore. Ubacio damping po propisu. Zalepio ALUBUTIL 3mm na limove od korpe pošto nisu liveni i zvone . Takođe pozadi na waveguide od visokotonca albutil - pošto plastika osciluje....Smanjio refleksije na 0....Sve se to čuje

Ma ovo je ludilo tek sad. Ima točkove da ugradim na stalke i šetam po sobi. Pa onda oni akustički panoi na zidove

Zavisi od zvučnika. Kod mene visoki idu provereno do 30khz. Osećam hiperfrekfencije u naletima. Ako je previše agresivan opamap (preoštar) bude dobro u početku, posle osećaš pritisak u koščicma u srednjem uvu i bude naporno na duže. Kod mene čak i fabrički NE5532 zvuči toplo (oblo) i nenaporno. Muses02 je zvuk upakovan u oblande, svaki ton je zašećeren.

Samo da znte da se Muses02 bolje cuje od 1656 na ovaavkvoj muzici. Pricam o Fosiju. Kad krene da skace ovaj po kontrabsu - pa armonika / violina. Ko babin Telefunken - samo 100 puta jaci