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VDH polarity checker

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10 minutes ago, zoranzu said:

Mrsite o glimericama a siroti mali osiguraci vam trn u oku

Mrsimo svi o svemu, nego niko ne pozira sa glimericama pa da se zakrvi :) 

Pride, respekt je i za majstore trgovine, nije to mala stvar. :) 

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6 minutes ago, Kuršum said:

Nađi ti high end osigurače za 170 dinara, i njih će kupimo. :)

Ajd ti sad nadji segrta,prosli mi izdrzao samo 2 polarity test checkera

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8 hours ago, Kuršum said:

Ako stvarno mora da se raskačinju svi kablovi, ima da se iznerviram.

Mora da se raskačinje. Našao sam negde još jedan opis gde se kaže da treba otkačiti i uzemljenje pa proveriti napon na kućištima uzemljenih uređaja. To otkačinjanje se radi sa adapterom koji nema uzemljenje, imam negde kući onaj običan "lopov" koji nema uzemljenje pa ću sa tim da probam, samo da ga nađem gde sam ga turio, to je prastaro.

Fine-tuning your audio system using the van den Hul voltage tester: 
Note: To perform the fine-tuning correctly and without problems in a single pass, the reader is strongly advised to be fully acquainted with the parts below (points 1 trough 4 and "Hints") before applying the optimisation procedure to an audio installation.

The optimisation procedure:

First, each audio device in your installation needs to be made completely electrically isolated from its environment; Remove (disconnect) all interconnect and other cabling from the equipment in your installation (even your tuner's antenna and loudspeaker cables) and unplug all mains plugs. Also make sure that no other possible current paths between your equipment or to ground remain (for instance occurring along metal housings directly contacting each other or along metal supports). Further, make sure to turn down all your volume controls. 
With the tester (pressing the 'Direct Test' button), find the phase (=hot) on all mains outlets that power your audio equipment and mark it. 
With each audio device in your installation to be optimised now repeat the following steps (A through C):

Note: When testing any audio device, all other equipment in your installation must be kept unplugged from mains. 
Plug into mains, switch ON and use the tester's 'Direct Test' button to measure the residual voltage present on the local audio ground, with its screwdriver blade pressed against any of the device's line level input's or output's (RCA/Cinch) outer metal shield connection (=audio ground). (For instance measure at your CD player's right or left channel's output shield). 
Switch OFF, reverse the device's mains plug polarity by turning the plug 180 degrees, plug in and switch ON. Now again measure the residual voltage as described at point A. 
The mains plug polarity position producing the lowest residual voltage minimises the device's residual ground currents. Switch OFF, and unplug the mains connection. Mark the plug's side that was connected to the mains outlet's phase (already marked at point 2) in the optimum position found. With both your mains plugs and outlets marked, the optimum plug polarity always easily can be retrieved. Continue at point A with the following audio device until all the equipment in your installation has been optimised for minimal residual voltages. 
Having completed point 3, reconnect all wiring while routing your mains cables as far away as possible from the interconnects, loudspeaker cables and all audio device's cabinets. This to keep the mains cables' electrical stray fields from inducing additional hum voltages. Residual ground currents now have been minimised and your installation should sound cleaner. Also, if present at all, audible mains related disturbances such as clicks and so on will be reduced. 
Some hints:

In some countries, mains plugs equipped with a ground pole can not be reversed. In most cases the related audio equipment will thus be grounded to mains, and does not need to be optimised for polarity. With mains grounded equipment the tester will indicate a zero voltage residual on the audio ground. 
To get the most accurate and objective reading of the residual voltage present on any device, please note the following: 
When measuring, touch the device under test only with the voltage tester. Also do not touch any other electrical appliances with your body. 
Route the mains cables from each device under test as straight away as possible from the device itself to reduce the cables' electrical stray field influence on the measurement; The mains cable stray fields unwantedly increase the device's residual voltage. 
Considering the intensity of the highest voltage indicated on the tester's display helps you to get more precise voltage readings; Looking at the tester's display from a different angle may help here. (Always use the same angle to be more accurate when comparing residual voltages in different mains plug polarity positions). 
When, despite having taken the hints above into account, no different voltage readings between both mains plug polarities can be obtained: 
Remove the device from the vicinity of other electrical appliances and cabling, or at least disconnect those from the mains. 
Improve your body's grounding by touching either central heating, water tap, mains ground (or even a wall or the floor) with your other hand; This however will only rarely be necessary. 
When getting no voltage reading at all, the device under test must be having a contact to ground. When this is due to connection to a grounded outlet you do not need to optimise this device, since all its residual currents will be drained to ground anyhow. When the device is not grounded to mains, check whether the device has contact to ground in another way (for instance occurring along metal housings directly contacting each other or along metal supports); Try to remove this parasitic ground contact. 
In some cases in the optimal mains plug position the minimal residual voltage remains as high as halve your mains voltage or higher; Directly touching these devices may be dangerous (risk of shock) as there is a high leakage from the mains; The device probably has been designed to need connection to a mains outlet equipped with a ground contact, which then you MUST provide. If it does not have a mains plug with a ground contact, running a wire from one of its cabinet's screws to mains ground, central heating or water tap (always first unplug the device from mains) may solve the problem. Verify with the voltage tester. 
Note: When connecting more than one audio device to ground in your installation, risk of introducing ground loops exists.

When all actions mentioned above are performed properly and according to their description, safety risks are kept to a minimum. Van den Hul B.V. however denies liability for damage or harm of any direct or indirect nature resulting from, or occurring through, activities triggered by this manual; Always think twice and be very careful when working with the mains voltage! Always use the voltage tester in direct test mode to check whether dangerous voltages are present.

We wish you lots of success with your van den Hul voltage tester !

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Ima i ovo uputstvo.

Every component in an audio system is sensitive to AC polarity. Ensuring that your electronics are connected to the AC line with the correct polarity is essential if you want to realize the full potential of your system.

What follows is a simplified explanation of the phenomenon, and a description of a simple method of determining the proper connection of the power cord for any piece of equipment in your system.

All of the electrical equipment in your system has been designed with proper A/C polarity in mind. A specific leg of the A/C line has been dedicated as the positive (sometimes referred to as hot) conductor and the other leg as the negative (sometimes cold) or neutral. Often a third leg for ground, is included. The problem begins with the A/C wiring in our homes. If our electrical system is improperly wired we may not have the positive leg and neutral leg in their correct orientation. Coupled with design differences among equipment manufacturers, we have no way of knowing that correct AC polarity has been achieved by simply inserting the plug in the wall.

Technically, the transformer in the power supply can induce a charge (up to 90 volts) on the chassis side of each component. Interconnects allow currents to flow between all of the associated components in your system which is likely to modulate the ground reference of each consecutive gain stage. Proper polarity alignment is achieved by registering the chassis potential to ground.

Correct orientation of the A/C plug (polarity) can be easily  determined with a simple Multimeter or Volt Ohm Meter (VOM). One accurate enough to do the job (preferably a digital unit and one with a 10 to 11 Meg-Ohm input resistance) should not be too costly (the Meterman 5XP is a good choice an can be had for less than $40). A local electronics supply, Radio Shack and even many home centers should have an appropriate model. A Multimeter can be used for a variety of tests and is something every audiophile or homeowner should have in their toolbox.

Before proceeding with the test, I would suggest you check all of your outlets for correct wiring. An electrical circuit tester (with three lights that tell you how the outlet is wired) is available in any home center or hardware store for a few Dollars.

To find AC polarity with your Multimeter, proceed as follows:

  1. Turn off all components.
  2. Isolate each component by removing all wiring including power cord, interconnects, ground leads, antenna wires, etc.
  3. On components with a 3 pin power cord, float the ground with a three-to-two adapter (often called a cheater plug or ground lift adapter). You can see a picture below. On many of these adapters the neutral side of the plug is usually wider than the hot side and reversing can be difficult. You may need to trim that side to allow reversal.
  4. Connect the common probe of the Multimeter (black lead) to a ground reference point*. I If you have a three-wire grounded receptacles, use the center pin.
  5. Connect the positive probe (red lead) to the chassis or ground terminal of the unit under test.
  6. Plug the component into the wall socket and turn on the power switch. Note the A/C voltage reading on the Multimeter.
  7. Reverse the position of the plug in the wall socket and repeat step 5.
  8. The correct A/C alignment will be the one that gave the lowest reading.
  9. Unplug the component, mark the plug so that you can properly reconnect it, and proceed to the next component.

If you find that the AC polarity of a component needs to be reversed, you have two options. One is to leave the adapter in place and the other is to change the polarity on the outlet itself. Please do not attempt this if you are not comfortable working with line voltages and be absolutely certain the breaker is off and there is no voltage at the outlet!

Please note that in some rare instances, the higher reading will produce better sound from the component. Listening to each and every component in the system can be an extremely lengthy process. And in some cases the differences will be so small that mistakes could be made. I would recommend for most people to simply follow the meter. But if you want to get picky, listening tests should be employed to determine which is best.

Significant sonic improvements can be realized by the proper A/C orientation of all the components in ones system. The effect can be quite startling in some systems. Improvements in imaging, low level detail and high frequency clarity are often noted, with some components benefiting more than others. In my experience, preamplifiers and CD players (D/A converters included) are particularly sensitive to proper polarity, and often benefit greatly. Many tube units as well, seem to be rather sensitive to this phenomenon. It is important to do every component in the system, as improvements are additive. A little bit here and a little bit there adds up to a lot in the end.

* A good ground reference point may he difficult to identify. Try using a cold water pipe (do not use a gas pipe!), if you can locate one. An alternative method would be to use a copper grounding rod driven into the earth.  The center receptacle of a three-wire system may not always represent a good ground reference. To verify its potential, connect the common probe to the ground receptacle. The positive probe then inserted into the hot receptacle should yield approximately 120 volts, the neutral receptacle should be less than I volt. If you find greater than a I volt differential, try an alternate ground. Some Engineers feel that the best method of grounding employs the use of a dedicated copper ground stake driven into the earth as near the equipment as is practical. All component chassis would then be tied to the stake with a heavy gauge wire, utilizing the star grounding approach, with either the preamp or amp as the star junction. Please be sure to follow all local electrical codes when attempting this type of an installation. This job may best be left to a qualified electrician.

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7 minutes ago, Kuršum said:

Još kad bi znao kako da ga udenem u produzni koji ima ovu zastitu i samo moze da udje okrugli pin. :wacko:

Produžni sa zaštitnom pločicom, moraš istovremeno oba pina da utakneš, u drugi može plastični ili drveni štapić (bez vate naravno, a može i šrafciger koji ima izolovan metalni deo) a u prvi obična glimerica samo da vidiš gde je faza.

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Mada mi nije najjasnije zašto uopšte određujem de je faza, kad svakako mora da se proveri na kućištu svićka li munja na displeju. Ako svićka, onda okrenem utikač. Šta me briga de je faza, kad ne znam ni de je sa druge strane.

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23 minutes ago, Kuršum said:

Pa to i pokušavam da vidim, samo nisam znao da mora oba odjednom. :)

To u razdelniku je jedna plastična pločica sa oprugom koja rotira, mora obe strane da se pritisnu istovremeno inače neće da popusti. Pošto mala deca (tvoj slučaj) guraju svašta u te konektore, vrlo je preporučljivo imati takve razdelnike sa obezbeđenjem, a sve neiskorišćene utičnice po stanu obezbediti onim plastičnim zaštitnim "čepovima", pa si miran.

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46 minutes ago, Kuršum said:

Mada mi nije najjasnije zašto uopšte određujem de je faza, kad svakako mora da se proveri na kućištu svićka li munja na displeju. Ako svićka, onda okrenem utikač. Šta me briga de je faza, kad ne znam ni de je sa druge strane.

Pošto u svakom uređaju imam na 220V tzv. osigurač ja sam se prilikom izrade mojih sprava pobrinuo da mi faza uvek dođe na isti, pre prekidača i bilo čega. Sad ako se okrene faza na utikaču zbog manjeg napona indukovanog na metalnim delovima, moraću da okrećem žice do primara trafoa u svakom uređaju kako bi faza opet bila na osiguraču, znači ako iskoči iz bilo kog razloga da mi odvoji 220V od primara trafoa. To nije preterano bitno, samo kao mera opreza, jer može da iskoči osigurač a da ostane napona unutra ako faza nije na osiguraču. Kod fabričkih uređaja tu pomoći nema.

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zato ja u kuci imam i osigurace i uzemljenje , pa me ne interesuje gde se u uredjaju zadesio crknuti osigurac


mene daleko vise brine pegla na paru i usisivac na vodu , nego bilo koji uredjaj koji ja napravim

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