NIXIE

Danas će biti tako, nastavlja se fuzbal, a ima i tenisa.

To ti je Sveti Graal, teoretski ali nedostižan cilj. Prvi problem je soba u kojoj slušaš muziku. Ona pravi toliko nelinearnosti da možeš da zaboraviš na vernu reprodukciju u startu, to ti je ta fizika na delu. Drugi problem je što muzički instrumenti imaju drugačiju polarnu karakteristiku od bilo kojih zvučnika, pa i ESL63. Samo te dve stvari, da ne dodajemo razna izobličenja i ostalo u igru, su dovoljne da se može smatrati kako "verna reprodukcija" u stvari ne postoji niti će postojati. Sve je samo slika, manje ili više umetnička. Kad slušaš čuješ kopiju kopije kopije i tako ko zna koliko puta. Prvu kopiju pravi mikrofon. I unutar samo jednog pojačala imaš kopiranje ulaznog signala više puta. Pojačalo ništa ne pojačava, nego svaki stepen u njemu pravi novu veću kopiju preslikanu od prethodnog stepena. I sadržaj ploča i drugih izvora zvuka je manje ili više komprimovan, tako da to više nije verno originalu.

Ako živiš u zgradi sa više stanova sigurno je da ima barem nekoliko trofaznih utičnica (šporet, TA peći) gde su zamenjeni nula i uzemljenje, to ti je jedan od glavnih izvora lutajućih struja u zgradi. Svako ima svoj kabal do glavnog ormana gde je svako pojedinačno uzemljenje vezano na zbirnu šinu za uzemljenje zajedno sa nultim provodnikom, pa ta struja onda ide na uzemljivač u temeljima ili u zemlji i tu je veza sa ostalim stanovima. Kada u svom stanu imaš FID sklopku, onda nema šanse da negde kod tebe imaš takvu grešku, odmah će izbaciti kad uključiš taj potrošač jer struja potrošača ne ide kroz nulu nego kroz uzemljenje i sklopka reaguje trenutno. Ta struja mora biti veća od struje na koju sklopka reaguje.

Ja mislim da oni samo vode računa da ispune zakone i propise o zaštiti autorskih prava, bezbednosti i emisiji zračenja, i možda još po nešto tog tipa, tako da mogu da prodaju na svim tržištima. Sve ostalo je po želji. Recimo SPDIF izlaz iz DVD je uvek 16 bita 44,1 ili 48kHz, kakav god disk staviš unutra. Probao sam DVD audio 24bit/96kHz, izlaz je bio 44,1 ili 48kHz (ne sećam se tačno). Može da se dobije original samo pomoću HDMI splitter-a. To je vezano za autorska prava. Ne znam da li je isto tako sa Blu Ray mašinama.

Ha, to je i moja oblast. Kod nas nema cile mile, samo po standardu. Mada, nije sve jedno šta se ugrađuje, recimo ja puno radim sa pumpama, zatvaračima, ventilima, cevima i raznoraznom procesnom/mašinskom opremom, imaš identičnih uređaja raznih proizvođača, sve isto a opet nije isto, zna se uglavnom šta valja šta ne valja. A svi su po standardu i imaju potrebne sertifikate. I u ovoj oblasti su uglavnom premestili proizvodnju u Tursku, Kinu, Tajvan, Indiju, Južnu Ameriku da prežive konkurenciju, tako da je nekad pitanje da li je to isto tako dobro kao i pre. Audio ima puno subjektivnog, zato imaš toliko priče, raznih mišljenja šta je bolje i nebrojeno proizvoda, služi za zabavu. Meni je barem još uvek zabavno.

Srećko, mani se dizajnera, u fabričkim uređajima često ima i grešaka i puno stvari koje kvare zvuk (gomila nepotrebnih preklopnika, loši delovi, loše projektovani sklopovi, crna magija), video si već ovde na forumu. Uređaji male snage (tuner, CD i slično) sa metalnim kućištem koji nemaju uzemljenje mislim da moraju imati veću klasu izolacije primarnog namotaja, jer uzemljenje je prvenstveno zaštita od visokog napona dodira. Što se tiče okretanja šuko i ostalih utikača, probaš sam i zaključiš kao i za sve ostalo u šta sumjaš, i lepo napišeš na forumu. Ja ću sve da isprobam za vikend ako bude bilo vremena.

Sad kad je imam u rukama, video sam šta je u pitanju. Zgodno je ako je upotrebljivo zato što je malecko i ništa ne košta.

Pozajmio sam jednu istu takvu kao VDH za probu, ima diskretno pokazivanje napona, na displeju izlazi niz brojeva 12, 24, 48 ... 110,220, a slova sitna u PM nije za nas starije. Mislim da mi je bolji univerzalni instrument za ovo igranje, zato sam i pitao šta misli forum jer nisam znao šta je to i koliko je upotrebljivo. Probaćemo za vikend i jedno i drugo.

E jesu papci ko i svi ostali. Kakav smešan odgovor, company policy. Gde li kablove prave da mi je znati.

Imamo dobro uzemljenje u zgradi, skoro je mereno kad smo menjali glavni razvodni orman (bio drveni do pre dve godine a sad je po PS). Podrum je od armiranog betona i u donjoj ploči su temeljni uzemljivači, ima nekoliko izvoda na fasadi u vrlo dobrom stanju, a vlage ima hvala bogu dovoljno na 3m dubine. Instalacija u stanu je stara 11god. Sve sam novo uradio, kabal do strujomera je malo pre toga menjan. Imam i FID sklopku 500mA jer se grejem na struju inače bih manju stavio. Svi uređaji su mi pravilno uzemljeni, mislim na ono što sam sam pravio. CD i DVD nemaju uzemljenje, osim preko RCA konektora kad ih povežem sa drugim spravama. Svuda je faza na osiguraču, trebalo ne trebalo. Samo još ostaje da probam to okretanje štekera da li ima nekog uticaja na bilo šta. Ako ima znam šta mi je činiti, ako nema još bolje, manje je posla.

Ja sam kupovao, i to E88CC na 5670/6N3.

6922 na 6SN7 ima koliko hoćeš, ovaj što ti tražiš izgleda da ima samo ovde: https://www.tubedepot.com/products/6sn7-to-6922-adapter

Bili samo Šveđani, bez Šveđanki? To bre nešto sumjivo.

Pošto u svakom uređaju imam na 220V tzv. osigurač ja sam se prilikom izrade mojih sprava pobrinuo da mi faza uvek dođe na isti, pre prekidača i bilo čega. Sad ako se okrene faza na utikaču zbog manjeg napona indukovanog na metalnim delovima, moraću da okrećem žice do primara trafoa u svakom uređaju kako bi faza opet bila na osiguraču, znači ako iskoči iz bilo kog razloga da mi odvoji 220V od primara trafoa. To nije preterano bitno, samo kao mera opreza, jer može da iskoči osigurač a da ostane napona unutra ako faza nije na osiguraču. Kod fabričkih uređaja tu pomoći nema.

To u razdelniku je jedna plastična pločica sa oprugom koja rotira, mora obe strane da se pritisnu istovremeno inače neće da popusti. Pošto mala deca (tvoj slučaj) guraju svašta u te konektore, vrlo je preporučljivo imati takve razdelnike sa obezbeđenjem, a sve neiskorišćene utičnice po stanu obezbediti onim plastičnim zaštitnim "čepovima", pa si miran.

Produžni sa zaštitnom pločicom, moraš istovremeno oba pina da utakneš, u drugi može plastični ili drveni štapić (bez vate naravno, a može i šrafciger koji ima izolovan metalni deo) a u prvi obična glimerica samo da vidiš gde je faza.

Vala ovaj period je bio katastrofalan, svi se žale, ali tako je ponekad u Grčkoj, malo poplave malo požari. Ja idem (ne znam baš tačno gde) krajem avgusta, ostaje mi da se nadam da neće biti vremenskih neprilika, i da Grci neće da mi skidaju tablice.

Ima i ovo uputstvo. Every component in an audio system is sensitive to AC polarity. Ensuring that your electronics are connected to the AC line with the correct polarity is essential if you want to realize the full potential of your system. What follows is a simplified explanation of the phenomenon, and a description of a simple method of determining the proper connection of the power cord for any piece of equipment in your system. All of the electrical equipment in your system has been designed with proper A/C polarity in mind. A specific leg of the A/C line has been dedicated as the positive (sometimes referred to as hot) conductor and the other leg as the negative (sometimes cold) or neutral. Often a third leg for ground, is included. The problem begins with the A/C wiring in our homes. If our electrical system is improperly wired we may not have the positive leg and neutral leg in their correct orientation. Coupled with design differences among equipment manufacturers, we have no way of knowing that correct AC polarity has been achieved by simply inserting the plug in the wall. Technically, the transformer in the power supply can induce a charge (up to 90 volts) on the chassis side of each component. Interconnects allow currents to flow between all of the associated components in your system which is likely to modulate the ground reference of each consecutive gain stage. Proper polarity alignment is achieved by registering the chassis potential to ground. Correct orientation of the A/C plug (polarity) can be easily determined with a simple Multimeter or Volt Ohm Meter (VOM). One accurate enough to do the job (preferably a digital unit and one with a 10 to 11 Meg-Ohm input resistance) should not be too costly (the Meterman 5XP is a good choice an can be had for less than $40). A local electronics supply, Radio Shack and even many home centers should have an appropriate model. A Multimeter can be used for a variety of tests and is something every audiophile or homeowner should have in their toolbox. Before proceeding with the test, I would suggest you check all of your outlets for correct wiring. An electrical circuit tester (with three lights that tell you how the outlet is wired) is available in any home center or hardware store for a few Dollars. To find AC polarity with your Multimeter, proceed as follows: Turn off all components. Isolate each component by removing all wiring including power cord, interconnects, ground leads, antenna wires, etc. On components with a 3 pin power cord, float the ground with a three-to-two adapter (often called a cheater plug or ground lift adapter). You can see a picture below. On many of these adapters the neutral side of the plug is usually wider than the hot side and reversing can be difficult. You may need to trim that side to allow reversal. Connect the common probe of the Multimeter (black lead) to a ground reference point*. I If you have a three-wire grounded receptacles, use the center pin. Connect the positive probe (red lead) to the chassis or ground terminal of the unit under test. Plug the component into the wall socket and turn on the power switch. Note the A/C voltage reading on the Multimeter. Reverse the position of the plug in the wall socket and repeat step 5. The correct A/C alignment will be the one that gave the lowest reading. Unplug the component, mark the plug so that you can properly reconnect it, and proceed to the next component. If you find that the AC polarity of a component needs to be reversed, you have two options. One is to leave the adapter in place and the other is to change the polarity on the outlet itself. Please do not attempt this if you are not comfortable working with line voltages and be absolutely certain the breaker is off and there is no voltage at the outlet! Please note that in some rare instances, the higher reading will produce better sound from the component. Listening to each and every component in the system can be an extremely lengthy process. And in some cases the differences will be so small that mistakes could be made. I would recommend for most people to simply follow the meter. But if you want to get picky, listening tests should be employed to determine which is best. Significant sonic improvements can be realized by the proper A/C orientation of all the components in ones system. The effect can be quite startling in some systems. Improvements in imaging, low level detail and high frequency clarity are often noted, with some components benefiting more than others. In my experience, preamplifiers and CD players (D/A converters included) are particularly sensitive to proper polarity, and often benefit greatly. Many tube units as well, seem to be rather sensitive to this phenomenon. It is important to do every component in the system, as improvements are additive. A little bit here and a little bit there adds up to a lot in the end. * A good ground reference point may he difficult to identify. Try using a cold water pipe (do not use a gas pipe!), if you can locate one. An alternative method would be to use a copper grounding rod driven into the earth. The center receptacle of a three-wire system may not always represent a good ground reference. To verify its potential, connect the common probe to the ground receptacle. The positive probe then inserted into the hot receptacle should yield approximately 120 volts, the neutral receptacle should be less than I volt. If you find greater than a I volt differential, try an alternate ground. Some Engineers feel that the best method of grounding employs the use of a dedicated copper ground stake driven into the earth as near the equipment as is practical. All component chassis would then be tied to the stake with a heavy gauge wire, utilizing the star grounding approach, with either the preamp or amp as the star junction. Please be sure to follow all local electrical codes when attempting this type of an installation. This job may best be left to a qualified electrician.

Mora da se raskačinje. Našao sam negde još jedan opis gde se kaže da treba otkačiti i uzemljenje pa proveriti napon na kućištima uzemljenih uređaja. To otkačinjanje se radi sa adapterom koji nema uzemljenje, imam negde kući onaj običan "lopov" koji nema uzemljenje pa ću sa tim da probam, samo da ga nađem gde sam ga turio, to je prastaro. Fine-tuning your audio system using the van den Hul voltage tester: Note: To perform the fine-tuning correctly and without problems in a single pass, the reader is strongly advised to be fully acquainted with the parts below (points 1 trough 4 and "Hints") before applying the optimisation procedure to an audio installation. The optimisation procedure: First, each audio device in your installation needs to be made completely electrically isolated from its environment; Remove (disconnect) all interconnect and other cabling from the equipment in your installation (even your tuner's antenna and loudspeaker cables) and unplug all mains plugs. Also make sure that no other possible current paths between your equipment or to ground remain (for instance occurring along metal housings directly contacting each other or along metal supports). Further, make sure to turn down all your volume controls. With the tester (pressing the 'Direct Test' button), find the phase (=hot) on all mains outlets that power your audio equipment and mark it. With each audio device in your installation to be optimised now repeat the following steps (A through C): Note: When testing any audio device, all other equipment in your installation must be kept unplugged from mains. Plug into mains, switch ON and use the tester's 'Direct Test' button to measure the residual voltage present on the local audio ground, with its screwdriver blade pressed against any of the device's line level input's or output's (RCA/Cinch) outer metal shield connection (=audio ground). (For instance measure at your CD player's right or left channel's output shield). Switch OFF, reverse the device's mains plug polarity by turning the plug 180 degrees, plug in and switch ON. Now again measure the residual voltage as described at point A. The mains plug polarity position producing the lowest residual voltage minimises the device's residual ground currents. Switch OFF, and unplug the mains connection. Mark the plug's side that was connected to the mains outlet's phase (already marked at point 2) in the optimum position found. With both your mains plugs and outlets marked, the optimum plug polarity always easily can be retrieved. Continue at point A with the following audio device until all the equipment in your installation has been optimised for minimal residual voltages. Having completed point 3, reconnect all wiring while routing your mains cables as far away as possible from the interconnects, loudspeaker cables and all audio device's cabinets. This to keep the mains cables' electrical stray fields from inducing additional hum voltages. Residual ground currents now have been minimised and your installation should sound cleaner. Also, if present at all, audible mains related disturbances such as clicks and so on will be reduced. Some hints: In some countries, mains plugs equipped with a ground pole can not be reversed. In most cases the related audio equipment will thus be grounded to mains, and does not need to be optimised for polarity. With mains grounded equipment the tester will indicate a zero voltage residual on the audio ground. To get the most accurate and objective reading of the residual voltage present on any device, please note the following: When measuring, touch the device under test only with the voltage tester. Also do not touch any other electrical appliances with your body. Route the mains cables from each device under test as straight away as possible from the device itself to reduce the cables' electrical stray field influence on the measurement; The mains cable stray fields unwantedly increase the device's residual voltage. Considering the intensity of the highest voltage indicated on the tester's display helps you to get more precise voltage readings; Looking at the tester's display from a different angle may help here. (Always use the same angle to be more accurate when comparing residual voltages in different mains plug polarity positions). When, despite having taken the hints above into account, no different voltage readings between both mains plug polarities can be obtained: Remove the device from the vicinity of other electrical appliances and cabling, or at least disconnect those from the mains. Improve your body's grounding by touching either central heating, water tap, mains ground (or even a wall or the floor) with your other hand; This however will only rarely be necessary. When getting no voltage reading at all, the device under test must be having a contact to ground. When this is due to connection to a grounded outlet you do not need to optimise this device, since all its residual currents will be drained to ground anyhow. When the device is not grounded to mains, check whether the device has contact to ground in another way (for instance occurring along metal housings directly contacting each other or along metal supports); Try to remove this parasitic ground contact. In some cases in the optimal mains plug position the minimal residual voltage remains as high as halve your mains voltage or higher; Directly touching these devices may be dangerous (risk of shock) as there is a high leakage from the mains; The device probably has been designed to need connection to a mains outlet equipped with a ground contact, which then you MUST provide. If it does not have a mains plug with a ground contact, running a wire from one of its cabinet's screws to mains ground, central heating or water tap (always first unplug the device from mains) may solve the problem. Verify with the voltage tester. Note: When connecting more than one audio device to ground in your installation, risk of introducing ground loops exists. When all actions mentioned above are performed properly and according to their description, safety risks are kept to a minimum. Van den Hul B.V. however denies liability for damage or harm of any direct or indirect nature resulting from, or occurring through, activities triggered by this manual; Always think twice and be very careful when working with the mains voltage! Always use the voltage tester in direct test mode to check whether dangerous voltages are present. We wish you lots of success with your van den Hul voltage tester !

E sad mi je jasno, 23,5 funti je kutija sa logom VDH i finom svilom, a 1,40 funti je checker. A nama kutija ne treba.

Koliko sam upoznat, ispravite me ako grešim, firme koje se bave tzv. haj end audijom, prvo rade analizu tržišta, želja i kupovne moći budućih kupaca, onda daju inženjerima, dizajnerima i majstorima od struke da im to lepo isprojektuju, premere i naprave prototipove. Onda im to lepo sve pootimaju i daju svojim tzv. zlatnim opranim ušima da to promene po svom ukusu ili ciljanom ukusu publike i tako ide u prodaju sa nekom sci fi pričom, što bi rekao dr. Arslanagić. Isto važi za automobile, imaju neki modeli sad već veštački zvuk ili neke cevke koje dovode zvuk motora u kabinu, jer kaki je to auto bez zvuka (bljak električni).

VDH oznaka mora da košta, a tačno je da oni rade kvalitetnije za takve naručioce, mada ako funkcionalno nema razlike šta me briga.

Nema šta nisu iskopirali.

Ma znam ja da i obična glimerica malo čkilji ako staviš na metalno kućište uređaja koji ima unutra 220V a nije uzemljeno, recimo stona lampa metalna i slično. Nisam znao da se to menja zavisno od toga kako se okrene mrežni utikač.

Svaka ti čast, vidiš kako je koristan forum, uštedi se jedno 3880 din.