Jump to content

Aoxomoxoa

Član
  • Broj sadržaja

    593
  • Na DiyAudio.rs od

  • Poslednja poseta

Postovi objavljeno od Aoxomoxoa

  1. 49 minutes ago, Srecko said:

     

    Uzmimo,na primer,slikarstvo.Iako mi je stan pun slika,ja sam potpuna neznalica ove umetnosti.Stvarno se trudim da razumem kriticare koji,meni ipak nerazumljivim recima,opisuju odredjenu sliku.Pa se setim umetnika koji je magarcu rep umocio u boje,a ovaj mlatio po platnu.I onda hvalospevi,i sta je slikar hteo da poruci tom slikom.Ili ,na belom platnu crna kruznica i crvena tacka u njoj.Stoje ljudi ,posmatraju sliku iz raznih uglova,tragajuci za visim smislom,vecim nego sto je i umetnik zamislio.

    Nisam magarac.

    Mozda mi pomogne poznavalac svojim strucnim objasnjenjem o vremenu i okolnostima kada je slika nastala,koje su boje koriscene,u kakvom emotivnom stanju je slikar bio,i sl.Nece to puno vredeti ako se meni doticna slika ne svidi,ne izazove emocije.

    Tako je i sa muzikom,tj. hi-fi komponentama.Razna iskustva raznih konzumenata dobro dodju za stvaranje neke opste slike,sta valja,a sta ne.Meni vise znaci u smislu koje komponente treba izbegavati(sto se u mnogim recenzijama moze procitati izmedju redova).Jedini pravi nacin odabira komponenti,po meni je slusanje sto vise sistema,i graditi sopstveni ukus.Poceti od zvucnika koji odgovaraju prostoru u kome ce se slusati muzika,onda traziti pojacalo,probati ih u svojoj sobi,pa tek onda izvor koji nije kritican u odnosu na pojacalo/zvucnici.Nekom ce leci lampe,nekom tranzistori,stvar ukusa,i svakog slusnog aparata ponaosob.

  2.  

    I,zakljucak:

    OK, I think it is time to draw this thread to a close. Perhaps I can try and make a balanced and fair summary:

    1. The amount of power you need depends entirely on your music at your loudness at your distance.
    2. That said, if like me you like to 'let rip' occasionally and relive the loudness of your youth - but without the clipping - then really,100W+ is needed. If you don't, then 50W may suit you. 10W really is not enough unless you sit close, and play low-dynamic music quietly.
    3. Tube amps, by virtue of their output transformer, have a very complicated electrical 'push-pull' relationship with the speaker they are connected to.
    4. Consequently, it is practically or actually impossible to design a tube amp which performs 'flat' across the audio band unless it is designed with one particular make and model of speaker in mind.
    5. Consequently, tube amps will have a sonic personality which logically and actually may be attractive on some speaker loads and not so on others. The tube amp designer has no control over which speaker will be connected to his amp.
    6. Solid State amplifiers, whether analogue or digital, do not have an output transformer, and hence they sidestep the issue of speaker load mismatch and the in most cases have a very flat, consistent output level across the audio band when connected to a speaker load.
    7. It is entirely plausible - indeed likely - then when a tube amp is auditioned against a SS amp, that the frequency modifying effect of the speaker load will give the tube amp a distinct sonic personality. That is called 'coloration', and it can be very attractive to the ear (think cello v. violin).
    8. The user is sensible to make a core decisions before settling on a suitable amp: does it play loud enough, is it reliable, can it be repaired easily, does it have a flat frequency response (or not, if that is desired), and could I find that I like its coloration on some music but not others.

  3. To je tema iz koje je ovaj izvod.Uglavnom kritikuju Alana sto ne zeli da da preporuku za bar nekoliko pojacala koja bi bila pravi izbor za njegove zvucnike.Njegov odgovor u najkracem je : visak vati nije na odmet,i

    Does anyone care how I would go about selecting an amp other than checking out the aftercare situation before purchase? I’d look up Stereophile or similar credible technical measurements, and study two graphs: frequency response and load sensitivity. If you pick an amp where both graphs show, say, a deviation of less than 0.3dB or so across the audio band, that’s the end of the journey for me.

  4. In December of 2012 I found a TD-160 in a garage, sharing a box with mice. I decided to buy it and restore it. I had no idea how the process would go or what the end result would be. I thought I might play it in my office. I was listening to a Rega P3-24 in my main system. The process was both challenging and rewarding. After completely dismantling, cleaning, lubing, repairing internals, adjusting suspension, and temporarily wiring new rca cables, (they'd been chewed by mice) I determined I could bring the table back to life, and started in on the custom plinth. Once the custom cherry plinth was completed, I dropped the table in, added new rca cables, and did a final suspension adjustment. When I finally plugged it into my main system as a test I was dumfounded. Could this table really sound that good? Could it really sound better than the P3-24? Well it did. And it does. And it now lives in the main system, while the Rega sits in the office.

    The point is, if you're looking to listen to vinyl, you may want to buy the TD-321. If you're looking for a fun project, and can enjoy the process, get the TD-160. Or, buy the TD-321 and listen while working on the TD-160.

  5. SME rucica na Thorensu mi deluje malo cudno,bez originalnog postolja,sa shelom koji joj nije primeren. Mada volim SME rucice,ovo bih zaobisao.

    ADC rucica na drugom Thorensu je bila cenovnog ranga SME,nisam je imao(SME II i III jesam),imala je pozitivne kritike. Obe su s kraja sedamdesetih.

    Technics bi preporucio ako bi se prodavao za 300e.Ja sam SL150(sto je isto kao i SL1400,ali pravljen bez rucice) i Regu RB303 pazario za 380e,sto je po meni bolja kombinacija.

    Linn nisam nikada imao,to ce linovci znati bolje da te upute.

  6. Imao sam ovaj model 1977g,koliko se secam,nema podesavanja VTA,dobijali su se plasticni adaspteri(podloske) raznih debljina (izmedju glave i shela). Bila je i posebna "kutija" gde se postavi prvi deo rucice sa glavom,i dodaju podloske dok se ne dodje do tacne visine.

    Inace podcenjena,ali vrlo dobra rucica.

×
×
  • Kreiraj novo...