Zen Mod

OK - to bi bilo za LTP ...... sto je samo jedna od primena .nemam primedbe na ono sto si napisaoonako - bolje kaskoda ( ako vec imas viska tranzistora koje bi bacao u mirror ili u nesto drugo ) , ali sa uparenim elementima u LTP-u .....moje pitanje je bilo generalno ..... dakle upotreba mirrora kojekude - sta si se zalepio za LTP - ovih dana ne vidis dalje od BF862 ....

vidis kako je to lepo ..... vise ociju vise vidi ......

kao sto naslov kaze - interesuju me iskustva i misljenja - koje prednosti imaju mosfeti ,fetovi odnosno bipolarciu pitanju tempco - simetrija current mirrora itd .

brzo i efikasno - veoma komforno za set

evo vam nesto slicica ovo sa golficom je oficijelno resenje konstruktora WTA ; ne secam se da li je to sad aktualni model , a mrzi me da trazim

jeste - nije da nije ..... iskreno - posle 158 godina rada u radiju - mene je mealo svejedno za liftove ..... u ruku mi usao i EMT930 i 1200 ........ kad malo bolje razmislim - lift se koristio samo za podizanje rucke - i to samo ponekad - kad imas vremena ......u svakom slucaju - ljudi izmislise lift sa razlogom .... ali mi nekako razrada lifta za RS-A1 deluje kao proces krunisan polovicnim resenjem .. ne kazem nista za WTA - al' ona je u drugom threadu .

lako - osnujes svoju firmu , radis u njoj i svako malo ides u nabavku .......kuj' te tero da se vracas u ovu bestragiju ?

vidim da cemo morati ili rastavljati stare hemijske , ili bazati da nadjemo kapilare ...... ili bataliti shielding , bar za prvu ruku

OK - ajd malo da produmamo i o ostalim dimenzijama , pa da se damo u nabavku par metara kvadratne (ili U prof) cevi , kao i pola metra okrugle ....znamo ugao ..... znamo i pivot-tip duzinu za standard ( ja cu verovatno ici i na malo duzu ..... mada ne vidim zasto - ovde nema poboljsanja gazne greske hehe , tako da cu verovatno i ja ici na istu duzinu ) ......probacu sutra malo jos da skontam precnik te okruglke cevi za nosac shell-a , kao i da jos jednom procitam textove , da vidim od cega je tacno shell plate ...... zna li ko kakvog starog urara ..... sve mi se cini da cu ja do mog druga Bujaka u Palanke ...... i na kod Belog .....

po meni ovako - ili kvadratna cev - seci jedan zid , ili pravougaona , pa seci na dva delau oba slucaja da se dobije 20 sirina , 10-15 visina , zid cevi 1,5mmkomad okrugle cevi za shell - mislim da ne moze ispod 2mm zid .... tako da to jos ostajeprofili - Tehnomarket , sto je cika beli proguglao

The structure of RS-A1 is quite simple as you can see in above picture. Avoiding knife-edge, or ball bearing support and making it with one point support simplified the whole structure. The material is aluminum for the arm and the base and stainless steel for the strut, counter weight and the armrest. The arm is held to the armrest with a small magnet attached inside the arm. The head shell is a rotary head shell. It can be taken off by loosening the nut at the bearing and is replaceable. You have to work carefully not to leave it loose, but the procedure itself is not a difficult one. The finger hook is unconventional that it extends 90° off from a conventional design. It is designed to maintain the left-right balance. Once you get used to, it is very easy to use. However, if you'd like to change the angle, you can do it by loosening the screw under the arm. It would change the balance in strict terms, but not as much as to disturb the practical use. Setting of the tracking force is British Decca-International style. With the common method of moving the weight forward after setting the static balance, the distance from the weight to the vertical fulcrum changes from what it once was when the static balance was set with the weight of the cartridge, thus making the scale inaccurate and unreliable. By having sub-weight on the back of the arm when setting the balance and taking it off afterwards, you get a very accurate tracking force. However, all cartridges come with an instruction for the tracking force with some range, so it doesn't need be completely exact. RS-A1 comes with 0.2, 0.4, 0.8 and 1.6grm sub-weights so that you can select between 0.2grm and 3.2grm tracking force with 0.2grm step. How to run the signal wire is where I had to think hard. I wanted to keep the rotation sensitivity high, so decided to use the same fine wire used on the rotary head shell. The loose wire left out at where the strut meets the arm is not necessarily to keep the rotation sensitive, but to make changing the cartridge easy. Since the head shell is the fixed design, you need to take the arm off from the strut and turn the arm over when changing the cartridge. The output of the cartridge is connected to the terminal with attached lead wire. Then each wire run through the 4 separate thin aluminum tube (for shielding) inside the arm to the output terminal. The terminals are made by Switch Craft, which has a reputation of having good sound.

Vertically angled arm settingOffset angle exists on vertical plane too, made by the angle of cantilever and horizontally flat arm setting, causing extra down force. RS-A1 compensates this problem with higher fulcrum setting, giving 16 degrees angle to the arm.Rotary head shellThe needle talk is caused mostly by the cartridge-arm-base resonant chain. Rotary headshell of RS-A1 cut off this chain of resonance by eliminating the effect of the arm mass to the cartridge.

RS Labs RS-A1 uni-pivot tonearmEffective Mass: Not specifiedStylus to pivot distance: 21.5 centimetersAnti-Skating: NoneAdjustable Height: Yes

.....In regard to the problem of adjusting the azimuth at the headshell, which Art felt was a shortcoming of the RS-A1 as he was unable to properly adjust the headshell so that it was level, I think I have a solution that is rather simple. One thing that I noticed while reading Art's otherwise excellent review was that the cueing hook on his sample was turned to the right from its original position. After going through the provided instructions, I was unable to locate any information that suggested that the cueing hook should be turned to the right. In fact, during the set-up process, I noticed that levelling the headshell was impossible if the cueing hook was turned from its original position. The added weight on the right side causes the headshell to tilt ever so slightly.That being corrected, I came to the realization that the headshell still wasn't perfectly level. In order to get the headshell to balance properly, users should take a pair of needle-nose pliers and carefully pull the tonearm wires at the bottom of the base until the added tension causes the arm to sit perfectly level. It took a few tries, but I did manage to get the headshell almost perfectly level. It's a pain, but not a problem that can't be corrected.

Being a uni-pivot, the RS-A1 uses a reverse missionary bearing: The upward-pointing spike is machined from tool steel and grounded to a point. The supplied counterweight hangs from a threaded brass fitting at the rear of the arm. By turning the thumbscrew, users can adjust the weight's position relative to the front of the arm, which is how you adjust the tracking force of the arm. Aha.On the base of the arm, you'll find a pair of RCA output jacks (there is no grounding post), a magnetic tonearm support, and that's about it. The base of the arm is fairly heavy, which proved to be a solid design choice, seeing as the arm can not be bolted to an armboard and just sits on the table's plinth.What makes the RS-A1 so unique and controversial is its use of a rotating headshell, whose range of movement is six degrees in either direction. The headshell is connected to the tonearm through the use of a needle bearing, and the rationale behind the design is that it provides a small amount of tracing error correction and that the "joint" offers relief from stresses imposed on the cantilever as it attempts to simultaneously trace two groove walls of varying thickness. The headshell, being somewhat independent of the rest of the arm, is also not affected by the mass of the arm. It all sounds rather complicated, but once you manage to set the arm up properly, it begins to make some sense.

sinko - ti si Genija :cheers:odo da vijam po sacuvanim stranicama podatke -duzine , debljine, uglovemada kontam i dalje - ono 20x20x2 da se uklapa .... al' kuj ga sisa - princip je bitan ......

dakle - ko od zainteresovanih ima antensko stablo napravljeno od neuobicajeno debljeg zida ?ili ideju gde traziti tankozidni Al profil - tacnije cev 20x20x1 ?ili 20x10x1 , jos bolje

niste jos ni rucicu napravili , a vi vec o liftu?

no cuttin' , please !Sloba is probably interested in CCS version , not Drek one .....

al' samo ako obecas da ces nakaciti sluske ditto na DL103 ......

malo uvecano

veceras cu da cupam jos - ne bi li skontali i okvirne dimenzije ... mada je u stvari samo ugao vazan - sve ostalo je idi mi dodji mi

.......

4/4