Zen Mod

Still on back side of amp Mean Well switcher PSU is of good quality, but I don't like flimsiness of DC connector, neither male nor female one Good ole 5-pin XLR is certainly better; I would like Calt Stecker being on cable, Heiss Stecker being on amp, but didn't had Heiss one ....... anyway , I did stay with original topology - Heiss Stecker on cable superblingy drill and edge reamer, no need to be overly precise, XLR is covering all I didn't even hop to my vertical drill, done it with hand-accu one useful tip for soldering pin-equipped connectors - always mary male one with female one - no bending of pins in plastic, due to heat

Still in mechanical realm, sort of Again post-Pa dealing gone wrong - Pa did arrange 2 pole switch, while hole on back side is for one pole, one pole in kit; Again no blame from my side ; I did enough mistakes that I know from where they are invoked, rest of life is not enough to learn how to prevent them I had a bag of proper 2 pole switches paper masking tape, calipers, files, patience

solving thermal issues; see pics, pretty much self-explanatory whoever did arrange with Modushop guys assembly with M3 screws is not having enough mileage with all things mechanical/thermal; not blaming a guy at all, I know that this wasn't operation made by professionals and outcome is still extraordinary that's exact reason why I'm posting this, to help Greedy Boyz in proper finishing and to feed my own OCD fact is -these 4pcs of M3 screws needed to be M4 and additional 2pcs of M4 are necessary only that way , with lapped T Bar, there is enough squeezing force at disposal to get rid of air gap between T Bar and heatsink

OK; thermal issues some facts: T bars came in Papa's arrangement, with approx 4mm Dia holes TO3 isolator pads are silicone thingies, I don't like those above 15W or so per device; gone for Mica + quality goop T bar is having bowed side which is going to meet heatsink; see sketch; some lapping - water-sand paper on thick glass is problem solver heatsink is bowed as all extruded heatsink of this profile are bowed; see sketch; no problem when you arrange adequate force with screws - not the case in this case; will rectify that

While at schematics, let's cover few things ( I already posted in origin thread about this amp), so let's repeat: well, I'm always amused studying Papa's schematics, from any imaginable reason .... mistakes being one of them :clown: original, drawing mistake marked, mistake fixed, simple remedy for better AntiBigBadaBoom at speaker out; there is no mistake at Papa's pcb, it is just on drawing now - last schm - in this moment already tried and proven, results are: edited delay circ is working flawlessly - no visible move of cone neither at power On nor power Off only if you are powering it Off reluctantly, slowly operating the switch , there is movement of cone, but slow and gentle - and even that one is not audible same behavior when leaving power switch ON, and doing power operation with mains cable of switcher - Nada during power On, gentle roll of cone with powering Off will post plenty of pics and some text, in separate thread maybe next evening and yes, really dunno how delay circ operated in original, didn't tried it at all; but I'm used to change Papathings just for sport - hard to make it better, easy to make it in different way

Postovano na Big Diya https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/lottery-diy-sony-vfet-pt-2-n-channel-assembly-by-mighty-zm.385977/ mrzi me da prevodim, copy paste Coverage of assembling one Lottery amp for my dear Friend, way of paying back for valuable help he gave in some of my endeavors He's extraordinary busy in last several months, so ...... Amp No. 122, member tunasto here, @vinko on Baby DIyA Let's start with schematics - I like when schematics are present DIY SONY VFET pt2 shrinked.pdf

VTL

ja vako i nako upravo narucio 50kom 2sk2087c Tokin iz Japana ce vidimo sta ce ispadne

nothing new under the sun

78S12

Salabert je imao najbolju rucku

ako ima zaostalog napona na elkovima, treba ih isprazniti (adekvatan otpornik, veci pa manji ) i potvrditi isto sa voltmetrom omotavanje aktivnih elemenata je recept za pustanje belog/sivog dima

ajd sad, da li je bilo napona u nekom kondu, to samo nebo zna i ne treba da se smaras sa tim, nego drugi put instrument pa izmeri gde imas napon msm, normalna praxa, i sigurnija no kristalkuglanje po forumu sta je inace problem sa 7812, pa menjas?

u cemu gde i kako ima li delitelj visokog napona?

za lokalnu strapaciju, ali samo pod uslovom da je lokal tipa malog vojvodjanskog lazy mesta, moze noša kacigica za bilo šta drugo, striktno full face, sa pravom homologacijom i msm, jbga, isto ko i motor - kacigu ne kupujes online, moras da probas

shonne - esu cemu ove webDL fajle, trenutno na raspolaganju?

nznm dal' je kod W. to na default na fifi danas kad udjoh kod njega, ko da je sviro tranzistor, Sanyo, "27 transistor", sa sve 1.5" speaker 'bo streaming

to W-u sluzi samo za produzni

Gabica ......

kaže W. : -nis' se obruk'o.

aha za take cu da napravim pcb od hektar, i da naplacujem u tezini zlata audiofooleraj treba postovati

and, while in Office SissySIT P block schm. as Pa would count it , two stages, plus two half stages ( how would Dr. Haus comment ? considering M2 derivatives, where we have - half stage, xformer stage, half stage ..... so by ZM Count - no stages at all!)