Zen Mod

Mika Antic

jes - krenuli i crkli

treba samo da pise Babel ; fish je vec nacrtan ........ zamlato jedna hamsterovska:air_kiss:

zna se sta je Babelfish u Prirucniku za autostopere kroz galaksiju : http://en.wikipedia....laxy#Babel_fish daklem - sve sto radim po Papinim fazonima (drugim recima - moje vidjenje nekog njegovog aktuelnog proizvoda , bez poznate detaljne seme ) uvek ima code name Babelfish prvi je bio Babelfish J ovo je Babelfish J2 J2 svira bolje od J ; Sloba ce ga ovde jos napraviti ..... a napolju jos 4 coveka , jer je toliko pcbs napravljeno nece se praviti vise , jer ne nameravam da to bude komercijalni projekat . dakle - nemam interesa da ga hvalim ........... .......... a vala ni interesa da ga nosam okolo i dokazujem bilo kome kako svira sto ce reci - ko god hoce da ga napravi - slobodan je - prvo nabavi jfets , napravi sebi pcbs ili ga sastavi ptp ja sam dovoljno odradio ...... i veoma sam zadovoljan rezultatom brainstorminga sa mojim Fullrange prijateljem sa Rooster Hill za njega su nabavljeni izlazni jfets medjusobnom razmenom poklona sa nasim inostranim wakoo friends ........ sledeci u Babelfish seriji ce biti verovatno Babelfish M2 .......... ali on nece stici dalje od iverice kao kolevke ....... dakle nece se pretvoriti u pravi amp , nego ce biti samo proban koncept a Mika ce da dobije drugi poklon - kad nabavi bolje zvucnike ..... verovatno neki Donut amp

sta cekas ?

covek ima cisto inzinjerski pristup , i trosi svoje novce ;ja nemam pproblem sa tim

few pics ; I simply forgot to post them ; detail - I made thermal contact between 4 LTP Jfets ( placed in plain row) with piece of thermally conductive silicone rubber ( usually found in old CD ROMS , as conductor between chips and case ) . rubber thickness is around 2,5mm . rubber is cut in strip , width same as Jfet width ; that strip is placed on top of 4 Jfets , then secured with small U shaped Al tin, placed on top of little buggers . voltmeters - left one is across 0R5 source resistor , right one is output offset with full blast temp on heatsink ; offset is starting at ~ 200mV at cold , then gradually decreasing to zero ; that little thermal bridge is really helping in final thermal and offset equilibrium . I wasn't in mood to ....... well - accu's in my cam weren't in mood for further shooting CRO screen ..... , so you'll must believe me ..... that they're flawless , at least in my book .

Nessha - sacekajmo do sutra , da vidimo kako ce se razvijati situacija dalje tnx

neki laprdaju i prave , neki ne laprdaju i pravea neki ne prave

kako ide ono na latinskom - Penis Bonus, Pax In Domus recept da stavis i najruznije zvucnjake u kucu

Luxman Emerald Physics CS1 Oswald Mill AC1s

nema mesta za krpice , al' zato ima mesta za pamet

tebi nije dobro danas Miko ?

za lepe zelje , brigu i fingers crossed nikad nije rano

jel' za pucanje i pijenje ?

slazem se ;ja moju fotokopiju jednog od prvvih izdanja cuvam kao oci u glavi vec 15-ak g.

well - to have more appropriate voltage for input jfets , one day you'll need to replace all these leds with decent 20mA type , which will gives you few volts up - as in schematic I posted ??what's voltage across R23 ? you made somewhere short ; you must solve that ( without output Jfet installed ) before anything else

veoma ;

tko leti vrijeditko vrijedi letitko ne vrijedi , ne leti:tongue10:

Seventh edition ?

slusno ili merenjem ?

ok everything having on mind that Ugs of outout is in range of 1V3-1V4 output jfets desoldered both inputs tied to gnd output also tied to gnd R12 to zero , same as R25 now - power up just to have all leds lit , and up a little to - say +/-15V to max +/-16V set R9 to have 9V4 across it now - if all input jfets are ok , and BC are ok you'll have around 23mV across each of R5 , R6 , R7 and R8 across R35 you must have 10mAx220R= 2V2 ; because you have lowish Ugs comparing to mine Jfet outputs - you can decrease R35 to 180R , so you'll have broader range for setting R12 later ; in that case you'll measure 1V8 across R35 now - if you still have 0V across R23 ( and you'll always have around 0V65 across it , doesn't matter which value of R23 is - it's best to replace both Q7 and Q8 if you have 0V65 across R23 ....... taking in account that you place 60,4R there ( in previous schm maybe there was 68R , but 60,4R certainly wasn't ) , current throughthat CCS will be Vbe/R23= 0V65/60,4=10,7mA , which will make around 4V2 across R26 ; optocoupler is dead now - without current going through 3W source resistors , so LED isn't lit . it's best to change that optocoupler - who knows what you does ........ OK - let me know what you measure that way ....... and I'll see that in some 8-9 hours buona notte

ok - now I'll type how to test rest of circ without outputs after that , I must go to sleep ..... early morning is Philip Island ......so - wait a little