Zen Mod

pazljivo procitati drugu stranu to je ono sta ja cujem kao potvrdu "signal energy preservation" naravno - kao i uvek - vase misljenje moze i mora da se razlikuje

prebaci temu negde drugde i z off topicau know how ili sta vec

e- nek' si mu rek'o:buehehe:

samo metalni deo kutije i trafosve ostalo odnela Braca Cigani

ja sam takav rastavio u paramparcad pre 2-3 nedeljenije nizasta drugo - pozar u kuci

Deda -mora da je mnogo slana ta sunka sto si sinoc kusao .......

Sloba nam je valjda stigao s puta poslovnoga ......... kazem nadam se da jeste ...... i da sad lada u dvoristu sa nogama u lavoru , i pivom u ruci .......

be patient day or two - then we'll have proper schematic with proper nomenclature , so explaining things will certainly be easier ;I'll make small batch of pcbs , so you can count on that ....... but be aware of possibility that someone on big DiyA came with closer approximation of real J2 .I intentionally didn't count parts in J2 , so I use it as general guide , really wanting to Babelfish it , not clone it .edit - all values of pots , along with dedicated series fixed resistors , are chosen to prevent any smoke scenario

ja sam odustao od otpornika u anodi radje i ekser

nece - ne boj se - ene je rastavljena ce sledece pravimo Little Donut

zadnji put kad smo pricali o biznisima , pominjana je stamparija ....... ako nisam izlapeo ....... ( a jesam )

a moram malo da se zekim ........ kako stamparija ?

to si mog'o odmah ......

slobodno koristi zice (1,5kvmm) od plocice do mosfeta do 50mm a da ne moras misliti na gate otpornik - da ga montiras posebno kao sto rekoh - imas detaljne slike u pomenutoj temi

da montiras ruju direK na Cu vinkl , pa stavis veeeeeliki liskun izmedju Cu vinkl i hladnjaka ?

pretpostavljam da imas fotoaparat - kojem ne treba razvijanje filma i izrada fotki u labu ? Babelfish za Hifish-a ; tamo je koristena Pezante dissipante hifi200seljackatalijanska kutija imas slika na gledanje , pa mozes mnogo da zakljucis iz samog gledanja istih

Tea- just few thoughts ...... as you can always see from Papa's schematics - he always counts on selected parts ; same is here ; value of drain resistor in input LTP is dependable of exact lower output Jfet Ugs value ; same - value of resistance in paralell to CNY bjt is dependable of exact upper output Jfet Ugs value . so - procedure for making functional Babelfish J2 is something as : 1. test and choose output Jfets ; according to their respective Ugs values - 2. preset input LTP resistance and CNY's parallel resistance 3.preset input LTP CCS at 20mA ; then 4. solder outputs in place and proceed with proper power up procedure #3 demands some tricks how to , with auxiliary PSU ...... or just setting programming resistance in CCS to ~ 0V65/20mA=32R5 more to come - with proper schematic , with parts nomenclature

just best practice but - I didn't tried really mismatched ones ; maybe I will , but not so soon ...... maybe because I don't have really mismatched ones I know that they're everywhere from 1V2 to 1V9 , at 2A in any case - I think that real and valid answer you can get only using THD meter , and comparing best and worst case

onda su i ovi isti ......

not exactly matched you can see their Vgs-es at 2A on pictures