Zen Mod

better this one , with few changes ( dissipation and input/output voltage accommodation )http://www.diyaudio.rs/topic/2644-mali-shunt/page__view__findpost__p__51822that one with 317/337 have some compromises ( needed for exact intended project)

link vodi na home pagesta god mi ovde rekli - resenje se nalazi kod druga na drumuradi se o sljampavo izvedenim masama , nepotpunom projektu ,ili starosti nekog delasta god da je od ta tri uzroka , mora se naci na radnom stolu

dobro je - 80um je OK

nisam nasao konkretan hladnjak ( maltene su svi sa po 10 rebara na 100mm ) ali se uporedjenjem dobija da je taj jedinicni komad negde oko 0,9K/Wdakle - tri komada povezana heat spreader-om ( bakarna sina (8)10mmx40mmx200mm) dace priblizno 0,3K/W prosta racunica - gurni na ta 3 kom povezana 100W disipacije , imaces hladnjak na ~ 55C , sa okolinom od 25Cstranica od 3 kom dobra za bio koji Pass disipacije do 100W , Krell KSA50 malko smanjene snage i sl.ako bi se racunalo na kanal po kutiji ( 3 kom po strani ) mora se povesti racuna oprojektu - izabrati projekat koji dopusta da se mogu rasporeiti izlazni na 2 nezavisne grupe ; nezavisne u smislu temp equilibrijuma

raskuk'o se za Rth

then you must make two of these per channel :buehehe:double fun

zvudaj jednu sliku sa dimenzijama znas kako se vide hl u katalozima - sam profil pa ce vam nadjem u katalozi sta je to i sta mozeraskuk'o mi se danas mladjahni Popa .......

sorry - nisam ni mislio na brisanje , no na muvovanje

still not stereo ........ it's pretty low on my list , now when I'm finished with construction for decent buffer between attenuator and J2 ,try this one ; and you really need buffer , to avoid loss of highs and dynamicsif you like it , I'll point you to decent shunt reg ; frankly - with red leds , but I know that you will not mind .... :Viannen_loungelizard:PSU voltage can be anything between +/-18 and +/-25V

a nemoj brisati ... sve je nekako lepo u kontekstu .... a i reklamiramo temu

my precioussssssssssssssssssssss:Viannen_loungelizard:

e meni je bas dobro !a mozes i da kliznes staklo lako gore , i menjas ceve svaki dan

a ja bas na to i mislio odbaci sve varijante (Al lim ) , stavi da staklo bude front , iza njega prohrom , pricvrsti taj sendvic sa 4 lepa srafa ........ ili lajsnama ako ti je do togaako si vec dobio dobar komad dimljenog stakla - zasto ne napraviti front od njega ?mislim - pala mi opcija na pamet .. red i da je kazem ... a ti naravno uradi kako tebi pase

ostavi staklo da bude lice , pricvrsti unutrasnji lim da bude pozadina koja ima prozor za cevepricvrsti staklo na ostatak sa prohrom srafovima sa fazonskim ( slepim ) čelom za ostatak kutiješrafovi naravno u uglovima stakla

lici , al' ni nalik

....... da sledeci put ne ispadnem majmun ......... :rofl:no - s kim se druzis , jos si ti i dobar

they're almost there , tnx save those , you'll need them for future Babelfish-es( soon we'll proceed to M2 )

same as J2 - unbalanced 100K , balanced 200Kbecause input Jfets are cascoded , we don't have Miller capacitance , so you can count on pure input capacitance of Jfets

for protection of output Jfets look at this schematic - there are two zener diodes ( small - 10 to 13V / 300mW ones ) added between G and S ; solder them underneath pcb , in any convenient position for upper Jfet - say between adequate pins of R22 and R27 for lower Jfet - say between adequate pins of R31 and R32 edit : schm deleted by ZM

I can't see how's that possible ; probably some gremlin in pcb factory current is good , same as voltage ( current) at jfetsregading jfet/cascode voltage - either add another led or find regular ones ; maybe it's best - when you have working amps to listen , then change and hear what's difference in few volts difference don't forget to disconnect speaker output from gnd :sarcastic_hand:gate resistors - try with 47 for start , then try 68 and 100 ; let your ears decide

sutraako Bog da da iskopam neku malo vidljiviju , pa da slatko protolmacim

samo ti stavi kako je na semi

:clapping:fakat - njih dvojica lice na mene