Sakura RS-A1

[Ја sam sam]

niste jos ni rucicu napravili , a vi vec o liftu?

Ко каже да нисмо-сам?Све у истом цугу, јер по мени лифт  је једини део који треба купити!Баталити прављење.стоН_Колд

[slatkia]

Ma blizu sam da proradi lift ako se pokaze dobar kad dodam mas ili ulje samo ostaje da ga uoblicim lepo. Nije nista komplikovano za pravljenje. 

[Zen Mod]

dakle - ko od zainteresovanih ima antensko stablo napravljeno od neuobicajeno debljeg zida ?ili ideju gde traziti tankozidni Al profil - tacnije cev 20x20x1 ?ili 20x10x1 , jos bolje

[Ја sam sam]

ili ideju gde traziti tankozidni Al profil - tacnije cev 20x20x1 ?ili 20x10x1 , jos bolje

То је тешко!стоН_Колд

[slatkia]

dakle - ko od zainteresovanih ima antensko stablo napravljeno od neuobicajeno debljeg zida ?ili ideju gde traziti tankozidni Al profil - tacnije cev 20x20x1 ?ili 20x10x1 , jos bolje

Mogu sutra da pogledam na tavanu stare antene dok su ih pravili kako treba mislim da je 20x10x1 ali ima rupice

[Ја sam sam]

Mogu sutra da pogledam na tavanu stare antene dok su ih pravili kako treba mislim da je 20x10x1 ali ima rupice  

Ма батали, то све труло сачувај боже а и мали је размак између рупа!стоН_Колд

[slatkia]

Ма батали, то све труло сачувај боже а и мали је размак између рупа!стоН_Колд

Pa trazio je antensko nije reko novo

[Ја sam sam]

Pa trazio je antensko nije reko novo  

Ма тражио .стоН_Колд

[Beli]

A šta kažete, jel' bi valjalo štogod od ovoga ? Ako valja moglo bi se priupitati za cene i (minimalne ) količine .

[Zen Mod]

sinko - ti si Genija :cheers:odo da vijam po sacuvanim stranicama podatke -duzine , debljine, uglovemada kontam i dalje - ono 20x20x2 da se uklapa .... al' kuj ga sisa - princip je bitan ......

[Zen Mod]

Being a uni-pivot, the RS-A1 uses a reverse missionary bearing: The upward-pointing spike is machined from tool steel and grounded to a point. The supplied counterweight hangs from a threaded brass fitting at the rear of the arm. By turning the thumbscrew, users can adjust the weight's position relative to the front of the arm, which is how you adjust the tracking force of the arm. Aha.On the base of the arm, you'll find a pair of RCA output jacks (there is no grounding post), a magnetic tonearm support, and that's about it. The base of the arm is fairly heavy, which proved to be a solid design choice, seeing as the arm can not be bolted to an armboard and just sits on the table's plinth.What makes the RS-A1 so unique and controversial is its use of a rotating headshell, whose range of movement is six degrees in either direction. The headshell is connected to the tonearm through the use of a needle bearing, and the rationale behind the design is that it provides a small amount of tracing error correction and that the "joint" offers relief from stresses imposed on the cantilever as it attempts to simultaneously trace two groove walls of varying thickness. The headshell, being somewhat independent of the rest of the arm, is also not affected by the mass of the arm. It all sounds rather complicated, but once you manage to set the arm up properly, it begins to make some sense.

[Zen Mod]

.....In regard to the problem of adjusting the azimuth at the headshell, which Art felt was a shortcoming of the RS-A1 as he was unable to properly adjust the headshell so that it was level, I think I have a solution that is rather simple. One thing that I noticed while reading Art's otherwise excellent review was that the cueing hook on his sample was turned to the right from its original position. After going through the provided instructions, I was unable to locate any information that suggested that the cueing hook should be turned to the right. In fact, during the set-up process, I noticed that levelling the headshell was impossible if the cueing hook was turned from its original position. The added weight on the right side causes the headshell to tilt ever so slightly.That being corrected, I came to the realization that the headshell still wasn't perfectly level. In order to get the headshell to balance properly, users should take a pair of needle-nose pliers and carefully pull the tonearm wires at the bottom of the base until the added tension causes the arm to sit perfectly level. It took a few tries, but I did manage to get the headshell almost perfectly level. It's a pain, but not a problem that can't be corrected.

[Zen Mod]

RS Labs RS-A1 uni-pivot tonearmEffective Mass: Not specifiedStylus to pivot distance: 21.5 centimetersAnti-Skating: NoneAdjustable Height: Yes

[Zen Mod]

Vertically angled arm settingOffset angle exists on vertical plane too, made by the angle of cantilever and horizontally flat arm setting, causing extra down force. RS-A1 compensates this problem with higher fulcrum setting, giving 16 degrees angle to the arm.Rotary head shellThe needle talk is caused mostly by the cartridge-arm-base resonant chain. Rotary headshell of RS-A1 cut off this chain of resonance by eliminating the effect of the arm mass to the cartridge.

[Zen Mod]

The structure of RS-A1 is quite simple as you can see in above picture. Avoiding knife-edge, or ball bearing support and making it with one point support simplified the whole structure. The material is aluminum for the arm and the base and stainless steel for the strut, counter weight and the armrest. The arm is held to the armrest with a small magnet attached inside the arm. The head shell is a rotary head shell. It can be taken off by loosening the nut at the bearing and is replaceable. You have to work carefully not to leave it loose, but the procedure itself is not a difficult one. The finger hook is unconventional that it extends 90° off from a conventional design. It is designed to maintain the left-right balance. Once you get used to, it is very easy to use. However, if you'd like to change the angle, you can do it by loosening the screw under the arm. It would change the balance in strict terms, but not as much as to disturb the practical use. Setting of the tracking force is British Decca-International style. With the common method of moving the weight forward after setting the static balance, the distance from the weight to the vertical fulcrum changes from what it once was when the static balance was set with the weight of the cartridge, thus making the scale inaccurate and unreliable. By having sub-weight on the back of the arm when setting the balance and taking it off afterwards, you get a very accurate tracking force. However, all cartridges come with an instruction for the tracking force with some range, so it doesn't need be completely exact. RS-A1 comes with 0.2, 0.4, 0.8 and 1.6grm sub-weights so that you can select between 0.2grm and 3.2grm tracking force with 0.2grm step. How to run the signal wire is where I had to think hard. I wanted to keep the rotation sensitivity high, so decided to use the same fine wire used on the rotary head shell. The loose wire left out at where the strut meets the arm is not necessarily to keep the rotation sensitive, but to make changing the cartridge easy. Since the head shell is the fixed design, you need to take the arm off from the strut and turn the arm over when changing the cartridge. The output of the cartridge is connected to the terminal with attached lead wire. Then each wire run through the 4 separate thin aluminum tube (for shielding) inside the arm to the output terminal. The terminals are made by Switch Craft, which has a reputation of having good sound.

[Zen Mod]

po meni ovako - ili kvadratna cev - seci jedan zid , ili pravougaona , pa seci na dva delau oba slucaja da se dobije 20 sirina , 10-15 visina , zid cevi 1,5mmkomad okrugle cevi za shell - mislim da ne moze ispod 2mm zid .... tako da to jos ostajeprofili - Tehnomarket , sto je cika beli proguglao

[Beli]

komad okrugle cevi za shell - mislim da ne moze ispod 2mm zid .... tako da to jos ostaje

ima ovde od 2mm

[Zen Mod]

OK - ajd malo da produmamo i o ostalim dimenzijama , pa da se damo u nabavku par metara kvadratne (ili U prof) cevi , kao i pola metra okrugle ....znamo ugao ..... znamo i pivot-tip duzinu za standard ( ja cu verovatno ici i na malo duzu ..... mada ne vidim zasto - ovde nema poboljsanja gazne greske hehe , tako da cu verovatno i ja ici na istu duzinu ) ......probacu sutra malo jos da skontam precnik te okruglke cevi za nosac shell-a , kao i da jos jednom procitam textove , da vidim od cega je tacno shell plate ...... zna li ko kakvog starog urara ..... sve mi se cini da cu ja do mog druga Bujaka u Palanke ...... i na kod Belog .....

[Zen Mod]

.......... The output of the cartridge is connected to the terminal with attached lead wire. Then each wire run through the 4 separate thin aluminum tube (for shielding) inside the arm to the output terminal..........

vidim da cemo morati ili rastavljati stare hemijske , ili bazati da nadjemo kapilare ...... ili bataliti shielding , bar za prvu ruku

[Beli]

ALUMINIJUM

U Zemun Polju u firmi "Rajan". Ulica Slobodana Bajica br.12 (kod Instituta za kukuruz). Telefoni : 375-38-17 ; 375-69-29 i Tel/Fax: 375-48-98. Malo stovariste, ali imaju svasta, i moze da se uzme koja god hoces kolicina. Nije kao u Jeep Commerce recimo posto tamo moras da uzmes najmanje 6 metara profila/firiketa.

[Sipi]

U Zemun Polju u firmi "Rajan". Ulica Slobodana Bajica br.12 (kod Instituta za kukuruz). Telefoni : 375-38-17 ; 375-69-29 i Tel/Fax: 375-48-98. Malo stovariste, ali imaju svasta, i moze da se uzme koja god hoces kolicina. Nije kao u Jeep Commerce recimo posto tamo moras da uzmes najmanje 6 metara profila/firiketa.

Pri tome treba imati u vidu da rade od 09-17 (subotom zatvoreno) - tako da zaposleni koji takodje rade u to vreme nema sanse da pazare. Takve stvari me izludjuju, izgubim volju da pravim bilo sta - uspem preko pola sveta da dodjem do Toshibinih JFET-ova i Hitachijevih lateralaca (Jacco & ZM, thanks again) a za usrano parce T profila treba da se dovijam...

[Zen Mod]

lako - osnujes svoju firmu , radis u njoj i svako malo ides u nabavku .......kuj' te tero da se vracas u ovu bestragiju ?