Potrebna pomoć oko usklađivanja impedance i kapacitivnosit gramofonske glave i phono preampa radi dobijanja kvalitetne reprodukcije

[predragm]

17 minutes ago, Woland said:

još je bolje da izbegneš i činčeve na plintu, da kabl nema prekid..

Naravno, a koji kabl da upotrebim uzimzjući u obzir da u ručicu treba da uđu tanani kablovi? 

Razmišljao sam i o pravljenju kabla koristeći onaj tanušni mss-7 Van den Hull iz Korata. Pravio bih na način da jednu nit (žicu) spiralno namotavam oko užeta debljine 6mm u koraku od 2,5 cm, a drugu smaknem za pola koraka tako da su u svakoj tački gledano po dužini razmaknuti tih 6mm.  Zatim omotati debljom teflonskom trakom (iama ih različitih debljina! ), a onda može šild pa snejk skin, Tako za oba kanala. Samo je ta žica sa dooobrom cenom za eksperiment.

[Woland]

ne razabiram se u kablove, ali bih obratio posebnu pažnju na shield, možda jednom staviš LO MC pa da ne moraš da menjaš kabl.

[vladd]

Ima i jeftinijih zicki za eksperimente

http://www.dagogo.com/nordost-odin-tone-arm-cable-interconnect-review

 

DL160 je kriticna, istina trolovski nahvaljena glava, zamenjena  sa pitomijom 110. Mislim da je kriticna masa operativnih i upotrebnih problema dostigla opasan nivo za marketing. Nezgodan naponski kluster u kom se nalazi, neophodnost strucnog podesavanja, nemogucnost audiofilskih laickih eksperimentisanja, finalni efekat je vise na psiholoskom nivou..

Posten savet je da se nastavi hvala doticne glave, dobar lim i mala potrosnja, i da se plasira na kupindo...

 

Mislim, ne pravi se sistem oko gramofonske glave, najpotrosnije robe, vec se sakupljaju i usaglasavaju korektno uradjene komponente.

Dobar plint, dobra regulacija motora, dobra rucka, dobri kablovi, usaglasena glava, fini preamp. plus obilje sitnih nijansi i trikova....

Ubaciti takvog vilenjaka u sistem prosto nije humano.  

[vladd]

I da dodam malo tehnicki deo(pokazana je volja za razumevanjem problematike), uglavnom sve glave podnose 200pf plus minus 100pf, neke i nesto vise. Rec je o rezonantno piku iznad 10KHz, gde se moze trimovati i modelovati efekat visokih tonova, pri tome se taj zaobljeni(neostri) pik pomera koji kiloherc, na vise kako se smanjuje kapacitivnost, ali su razlike vise suptilne a ne dramaticne, u intenzitetu(istina ako se uvede konstanta razmazenosti, sitnice mogu postati dramaticne).

Naravno, potrebno je znati induktivnost glave, za jasniju sliku pozicije pika..

Tako da da li je nesto 100 ili 105pF je apsolutno necujno i prakticno nemerljivo u konacnom efektu, sa 50pF je nestoveca razlika, pik moze biti na 12700hz i pomeren na 13500..ali da ne ulazim u diskusiju cujnosti..

To su neki redovi velicina, da se ne jure 2-3 pF(ili 20-30) kao nesto bitna.

BTW, skrracenje kabla od ramofona do preampa donosi smanjenje otprilike 10pF po decimetru, pa je relativno lako(i "cisto") variranje "loada" u tim nijansama sa razlicitim duzinama kabla..

Sa ili bez kombinovanja sa opteretnim kondom na preampu..

[Zen Mod]

arm cable - RF pletenica - sto ce reci svilom omotana liznasta zica , nalzai se u starim radijonima ili ima neko i na kalemu

 

dokazano dobra opcija , vise puta

[predragm]

Nemam tako stari radio.

[predragm]

54 minutes ago, vladd said:

IBTW, skrracenje kabla od ramofona do preampa donosi smanjenje otprilike 10pF po decimetru, pa je relativno lako(i "cisto") variranje "loada" u tim nijansama sa razlicitim duzinama kabla..

Sa ili bez kombinovanja sa opteretnim kondom na preampu..

I to je jedan mogući način. Da se zna.

[Gosha]

56 minutes ago, predragm said:

Nemam tako stari radio.

Ima ko ima:

 

[Zen Mod]

jeste

drug na drumu

 

[neskor]

Svrati do mene imam ja ostalo od Gose

a nisam ti ni daleko

[Gosha]

1 hour ago, neskor said:

Svrati do mene imam ja ostalo od Gose

a nisam ti ni daleko

Sad me podseti, kod nekog u BG je jedan ceo kalem, ostavljeno bas zbog ovakvih situacija a da se ja ne cimam oko slanja.

Samo kad bih mogao da se setim kod koga je.

 

[neskor]

Bilo kod DJ Nika pa sam ga ja uzeo

Slobodno neka svrati svako kome treba.

[predragm]

Hvala na ponudi. Kontakt preko poruka?

 

[neskor]

moze na PM

[predragm]

Ima li ko da posudi test ploču, a mogu i da kupim?

[predragm]

Još nešto, treba mi informacija gde da nabavim širm za kabl koji pravim (oko 1 m x 2)  ako znate konkretno gde i koji (sa kog kabla) . Treba kroz njega da prođe  kabl oko 7,5 mm.

[Zen Mod]

najjeftiniji a dobar shirm - nadji stari visak monitor (CRT ili LCD) sa VGA kabelom

uzmi VGA kabel od njega , oblankuj i uzmi shirm

flexibilan je , tako da ga mozes koristiti (odokativno) za kablove precnika par mm do 15mm

 

mslm, glupo je reci da ima i separatno VGA kablova ........

 

[predragm]

Hvala! 

[vladd]

http://www.novkabel.com/sr/search/sr/prikaz/253-Okrugle-savitljive-carapice.html

[predragm]

Hvala, a u kojoj maloprodaji?

[vladd]

Moraces da proveravas radnje, ili da zoves Novkabel da te upute. Ja sam narucivao direktno ali sluzbeno, a nesto od njihovog programa ima recimo u Unipromu i slicnim radnjama elektromaterijala. Mozes da proveris da li postoji mogucnost narucivanja.

Uglavnom su im vrhunski proizvodi.

[Zen Mod]

http://www.zenmod.in.rs/oldblog/an-inquiry-into-values-zen-and-the-art-of-motorcycle-maintenance/

 

 

Quote

 

I thought I would wait until something went wrong with his machine and then I would help him fix it and that way get him into it, but I
goofed that one myself because I didn’t understand this difference in the way he looked at things.
His handlebars had started slipping. Not badly, he said, just a little when you shoved hard on them. I warned him not to use his
adjustable wrench on the tightening nuts. It was likely to damage the chrome and start small rust spots. He agreed to use my metric
sockets and box-ends.
When he brought his motorcycle over I got my wrenches out but then noticed that no amount of tightening would stop the slippage,
because the ends of the collars were pinched shut.
"You’re going to have to shim those out," I said.
"What’s shim?"
"It’s a thin, flat strip of metal. You just slip it around the handlebar under the collar there and it will open up the collar to where you
can tighten it again. You use shims like that to make adjustments in all kinds of machines."
"Oh," he said. He was getting interested. "Good. Where do you buy them?"
"I’ve got some right here," I said gleefully, holding up a can of beer in my hand.
He didn’t understand for a moment. Then he said, "What, the can?"
"Sure," I said, "best shim stock in the world."
I thought this was pretty clever myself. Save him a trip to God knows where to get shim stock. Save him time. Save him money.
But to my surprise he didn’t see the cleverness of this at all. In fact he got noticeably haughty about the whole thing. Pretty soon he
was dodging and filling with all kinds of excuses and, before I realized what his real attitude was, we had decided not to fix the
handlebars after all.
As far as I know those handlebars are still loose. And I believe now that he was actually offended at the time. I had had the nerve to
propose repair of his new eighteen-hundred dollar BMW, the pride of a half-century of German mechanical finesse, with a piece of old
beer can!
Ach, du lieber!
Since then we have had very few conversations about motorcycle maintenance. None, now that I think of it.
You push it any further and suddenly you are angry, without knowing why.
I should say, to explain this, that beer-can aluminum is soft and sticky, as metals go. Perfect for the application. Aluminum doesn’t
oxidize in wet weather...or, more precisely, it always has a thin layer of oxide that prevents any further oxidation. Also perfect.
In other words, any true German mechanic, with a half-century of mechanical finesse behind him, would have concluded that this
particular solution to this particular technical problem was perfect.
For a while I thought what I should have done was sneak over to the workbench, cut a shim from the beer can, remove the printing and
then come back and tell him we were in luck, it was the last one I had, specially imported from Germany. That would have done it. A
special shim from the private stock of Baron Alfred Krupp, who had to sell it at a great sacrifice. Then he would have gone gaga over
it.
That Krupp’s-private-shim fantasy gratified me for a while, but then it wore off and I saw it was just being vindictive. In its place grew
that old feeling I’ve talked about before, a feeling that there’s something bigger involved than is apparent on the surface. You follow
these little discrepancies long enough and they sometimes open up into huge revelations. There was just a feeling on my part that this
was something a little bigger than I wanted to take on without thinking about it, and I turned instead to my usual habit of trying to
extract causes and effects to see what was involved that could possibly lead to such an impasse between John’s view of that lovely
shim and my own. This comes up all the time in mechanical work. A hang-up. You just sit and stare and think, and search randomly for
new information, and go away and come back again, and after a while the unseen factors start to emerge.
What emerged in vague form at first and then in sharper outline was the explanation that I had been seeing that shim in a kind of
intellectual, rational, cerebral way in which the scientific properties of the metal were all that counted. John was going at it
immediately and intuitively, grooving on it. I was going at it in terms of underlying form. He was going at it in terms of immediate
appearance. I was seeing what the shim meant. He was seeing what the shim was. That’s how I arrived at that distinction. And when
you see what the shim is,in this case, it’s depressing. Who likes to think of a beautiful precision machine fixed with an old hunk of
junk?